I’ve surfed four days a week over the last couple weeks. The swell’s been really consistent in size, but the low tide has killed most of my evening sessions lately. One day I met some friends up in Carlsbad… Tamarack looked insane but they didn’t want to surf in the crowd, so we went to this crappy break in the video below. Watch me get taken out by a closeout!
Thanks to Dutch for the video.
South-swell surfing in Oceanside is always great. I drove up there on Saturday morning with Hayley (9/9/06) and we met up with a few friends. The reports were calling for some head high surf, so I was pretty excited. We got there, and the reports were right on. The waves were incredible. I brought an underwater camera (one of those GoPro Cameras – $30) but it broke so our film was destroyed. Anyway here's a picture from later on (when the wind picked up) that I took with my digital camera:
I drove up to Oceanside harbor Saturday and Sunday to satisfy my craving for good waves. Sat. I drove up with a friend who's just starting to get into it… it was fun, but the waves were micro. Sunday, I went up by myself and surfed by the jetty that breaks off the harbor outlet on the South side (I think it's just north of south jetty, so maybe it's north jetty?) Whatever it's called, it was awesome. Most sets brought chest high waves, and there were enough waves for everyone. A few guys were really fun to watch… especially these two long-bleached-haired guys. Anyway, I had a great time; can't wait to paddle out there again.
Ross and I drove up to Oceanside on Saturday and Sunday to catch the latest SW swell. It was definitely worth it. Saturday we drove for about 2 hours stopping at all sorts of spots in San Diego, and nothing was breaking. Seriously, we checked out Mission Beach, spots in between, Torrey Pines, Cardiff, D-Street, some other spots just north of that, everything. Finally, Ponto started showing some swell so we just hopped on the Freeway and went to Oceanside Harbor.
Awesome. The sets were totally head high. Unfortunately I forgot my wetsuit and I was freezing so it wasn't as fun as it should have been. But Sunday we came back (with my wetsuit) and I had more fun. The waves were a little crossed up from the strong wind, but the swell was big enough to still make it fun.
Man I want some surf like that again. But I'm sick and I need to get better first. This weekend didn't help that.